Mangahouanga

NZ’s First Reptile Discoverer returns to Mangahouanga

In 1958, Petroleum Geologist Don Haw was mapping the rocks in the Mohaka river catchment of Western Hawkes Bay. The project was part of a wide ranging exercise to evaluate the hydrocarbon potential of the East Coast basin at that time for BP, Shell and Todd.  His discovery of reptile bones in the Cretaceous sediments was recorded on Company maps which subsequently caught the eye of Joan Wiffen in the early seventies. She ventured into the region to take a closer look. Remarkably this led to her eventual unearthing of New Zealand’s first dinosaur fossils, as well as many other new species of exciting Cretaceous reptiles. For her significant effort Joan became known as the “Dinosaur Lady”.  For his essential initial work, Don was awarded the Wellman Prize in 2001. On March 24th 2012, 54 years after his initial explorations,  Don returned to Mangahouanga along with the teachers and school children who were participants of our GNS Science “Dinosaurs and Disasters Geocamp“. This was a historic day as it was his first return to the valley in all that time. In the photo, Don (centre) is with Robyn Adams, one of Joan Wiffen’s long term fossil hunting assistants who still leads trips into the valley. In the following transcript, Don describes his experiences from all that time ago:   “We were mapping outcropping sediments in the Upper Mohaka river tributaries, observing for the first time, what might be there. Nobody had really mapped that steep isolated terrain before. We were keen to find what was present between the greywacke basement rocks and the overlapping Upper Tertiary sandstone section. Perhaps nothing – we just didn’t know – maybe the Upper Tertiary rested directly on basement.   Was there any Cretaceous section exposed?  This was so important to the assessment of the hydrocarbon prospectivity of the region.”   “It was high summer, February 1958 I think, and we were scrambling up this really difficult stream bed, huge boulders, and totally bush covered. We recognised we were stepping on boulders and outcrops of massive concretionary sandstones which we had not seen before. These appeared to be of marine origin, and had fine shell debris in them which was triggering off alert signals to me – There might be other important fossils here!  We should look carefully! I was with field assistant Ken Fink Jensen to whom I owe much for his support and encouragement in those days, Together we began to examine some odd protuberances on the surface of certain boulders, which I quickly recognised, because of their shape and texture, had to be organic and which were almost certainly bone remains from some marine creature.  I think my initial reaction was that they were fish remains. The rock was hard, very hard, and we extracted several and brought them back to Gisborne.“ “They were sent off to Jack Marwick, a retired NZGS chief palaeotologist,  who identified them as reptilean bones. Eventually they were recognised to be Mosasaur fossils, a type of  marine Plesiosaur.  It was a first for New Zealand.”   “This region became the hunting ground of Mrs Joan Wiffen who followed up our fossil discovery, with many years of hard work there, excavating numerous other finds from the same stream bed.  She, with her husband and family team, found many new fossils, some really exciting, including some terrestrial dinosaur remains which must have been washed into those early primeval seas. It has now become one of the most prolific fossil sites in New Zealand.”The final image shows a mosasaur skull that was found by Joan and her team and is now kept at GNS Science in Lower Hutt.

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Tyre Tubing the Mangahouanga Stream

On our second day in the Maungataniwha Forest, some of us explored the lower Mangahouanga Stream using the well established kiwi river transport method of tyre tubes. This allowed us to visit parts of the river that would otherwise be very difficult to reach. Initial access to the river was via bush bashing through pine and then native forest, and down a steep climb to the water’s edge. In the second photo I am following Ben towards our next fossil hunting stop off. James Crampton gets speedy on one of the faster sections of the stream. Where possible we stopped to closely inspect each boulder for the tell tale signs of fossil bones, wood or shells. Here is an example of fossil reptile bone (centre of photo). Because of the hard surrounding rock, these bones are not removable except using painstaking laboratory methods over many months. Although we found several interesting fossils, we were surprised that they did not seem to be as abundant as they were in 2009. This will have been due to the higher river levels, and the random redistribution of boulders during occasional flood events. Pete Shaw, forestry conservation manager, about to launch down some rapids. Finally we arrived at the Rockhounds Huts, – built by Joan Wiffen and her team in the seventies as a base for their summer explorations of the Mangahouanga Stream.

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Reptile Fossils from an Unexplored Valley.

The first barrier to accessing Mangahouanga Stream Three years ago I visited Mangahouanga Stream in Hawkes Bay  along with a group of GNS Scientists. This is the area where Joan Wiffen, New Zealand’s famous “Dragon Lady” found the only known bones of dinosaurs from New Zealand, as well as various marine reptiles, prior to her retirement from fieldwork about ten years ago. I described this visit in my blog at the time. What I didn’t mention in my blog was the existence of a remote valley that we believe might have only been visited once by a geologist prior to 2009.  The valley is a tributary of the Mangahouanga Stream. Pete Shaw with marine reptile bones from Wiffen Valley As well as being protected behind a large privately owned forestry block, this hidden valley is made particularly inaccessible by a high waterfall and densely forested ridge. Along with the forest manager Pete Shaw, I had managed to enter the valley via very steep and rugged bush in 2009. We spent several unforgettable hours travelling down the un-named stream (now called Wiffen Stream), finding several Cretaceous reptile bones in large concretions. The photo shows Pete in 2009 with the prize find of the day moments after he pulled it out of the stream. It is a cluster of several reptile vertebrae, subsequently identified as belonging to an elasmosaur. Although heavy, Pete managed to carry it out, whereas most of the fossils we found that day had to be left in place. Last week I returned to the area with a team of GNS palaeontologists along with Victoria University student Ben Hines. One of our aims was to explore the hidden Wiffen Valley to  have a closer look at its geology and fossils, This photo shows GNS palaeontologists James Crampton and John Simes in the upper section of Wiffen Stream. There were log jams, tree trunks and waterfalls to negotiate as we travelled down the stream. We took our time to throughly check out the boulders for fossils as we moved slowly along. The reptile bones are typically found in very hard concretions like this one. We were unable to identify this particular bone, or remove it from the concretion, so it was left in situ along with several others that we saw. In this photo  Marianna Terezow of GNS Science can be seen tackling the dense bush that must be traversed to access and return from the hidden valley.

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Cretaceous Reptiles in Hawke’s Bay

Over the last few days I have been with a GNS Science team exploring the remote Mangahouanga Stream in inland Hawkes Bay. This is the area that is famous for the discoveries of dinosaur and other reptile remains by Joan Wiffen (who died in June last year) and her team. It is on private land, deep in the forest and therefore rarely visited. Bones of marine reptiles seem to be relatively common in the hard concretions in the stream bed, but land dwelling dinosaur remains are very rare as they were washed some distance into the sea and separated before being buried in the sediments . An example of a therapod dinosaur toe bone, discovered by Joan Wiffen can be seen as a 3D image here On the way to explore the river we passed the two expedition huts used by Joan’s team . In the picture are Mike Wylde and Tunis Keenan, two Royal Society Primary Teacher Fellows being hosted by GNS Science this year.   After following a rough track through the bush, we reached the Mangahouanga Stream. In several of the large boulders we could see bone remnants. In this picture there is a large vertebra (backbone segment) of an unknown species of reptile. If you look carefully at the top of the rock in the right foreground you might see an oval shaped brown lump which is another similar vertebra. Here John Simes (GNS Science palaeontology collections manager) and Pete Shaw (forestry manager) check out a rock slab containing shells, sharks teeth and fish bones. Have a look at our video of fossil hunting in Mangahouanga Stream:

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