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Palliser Bay

Palliser Bay is an isolated sweep of coastline about 2 hours drive from Wellington. It is separated from New Zealand’s busy capital city by the Rimutaka Range. Yesterday I visited the area with a group of Lower Hutt school children as part of their Year Seven geology camp. Fully armed with the “Kiwi Fossils Hunter’s Guide” as well as another excellent book by Lloyd Homer and Phil Moore that describes the geological features of the Wairarapa Coast called “Reading the Rocks“, we visited several great geology hotspots along the coastline. A striking feature that we noticed straight away was the flat topped escarpment that runs along much of the coast. This is a raised marine terrace that was at sea level about 80 000 years ago. It indicates that the whole area has been undergoing an enormous amount of uplift which continues to this day. First stop was Hurupi Stream. (This is described in detail in the “Kiwi Fossils Hunter’s Guide“). The soft mudstones at the sides of the stream were deposited under the sea in the Miocene Epoch (sometime between 11 and 7 million years ago) , when the Aorangi Range just to the North was an island, separated from other parts of the North Island by a shallow sea. We found quite a few marine molluscs that are very well preserved and easily spotted. Not far along the coast road are the Putangirua Pinnacles. These spectacular features have been eroded out of a thick sequence of conglomerate. Hard layers or large individual boulders within the conglomerate form a protective cap at the tip of each pinnacle. The ground is strewn with loose rubble – testament to the fact that the erosion here is still very active. This might not be the best place to visit in a rainstorm! A few kilometers along the coast road, there is a dramatic example of coastal erosion where a whole section of the original road itself has disappeared! We followed the coast past the small settlement of Ngawi, and a huge tilted slab of fossiliferous sandsone called Kupe’s Sail, to the Cape Palliser lighthouse. This is built on a cliff of volcanic rock that was erupted under the sea as pillow lavas about 100 million years ago. The long staircase up to the lighthouse leads up to a great viewpoint. This is the Southeastern tip of the North Island of New Zealand, with nothing but ocean between here and Antarctica or South America. Just a few kilometres out to sea is the Hikurangi Trench, the collision boundary between the Pacific and Australian tectonic plates. The connection between uplifted terraces, fossils, erosion, earthquakes and volcanoes gave us all something to think about to round off our geological excursion.

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Turning over an old leaf with the Fossil Hunter’s Handbook

If you are reading this blog, you presumably like the idea of getting outside and appreciating the landscape and its underlying geological features. James Crampton and Marianna Terezow are paleontologists here at GNS Science. They have just published a great book for fossil enthusiasts called the Kiwi Fossil Hunter’s Handbook. It is full of interesting information and highlights a number of prime localities around the country for unearthing nice fossil specimens. After a conversation with James,, and armed with information from one of the chapters in the book, I recently visited a fossil locality near Murchison in the South Island. About 6.5 kms north of Longford on the main State Highway 6, there is a sign indicating Nuggety Creek Road. A few hundred metres along the track there are some crumbling cliffs by the roadside. This is a fantastic place to collect fossil leaves from the Miocene (about 16 – 13 million years old). They were deposited in a river valley that was surrounded by a rainforest. Boulders at the foot of the cliff are absolutely packed with leaves of different plants. There were large trees here as well as smaller plants such as ferns living beneath them. The rock is quite crumbly, so it can take a while to find a lump that is solid enough to stay in one piece. These fossils are evidence that the climate in New Zealand in Miocene times was very humid and warmer than at present. As you can see from the last photo, some of the fossil leaves are superficially very similar in appearence to modern leaves found at the same locality today.

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Caves and Moa Bones

Takaka limestone landscape On a recent trip up Takaka Hill near Nelson, I went exploring over the limestone landscape with my daughter Sophie (with permission from the landowner). The area is riddled with sink holes and caves. The most well known is Harwood’s Hole – a huge vertical shaft about 50 metres across and over 180 metres deep. However most of them are much smaller – many only a few metres deep and blocked with debris. Moa Trap – the cave entrance In this second picture you can see a typical example. A small cave entrance half concealed by vegetation. Inside it, a few metres from the surface and half buried in the clay floor Sophie discovered a moa bone . With a bit of digging we eventually uncovered a variety of bones from several individual skeletons. They were jumbled up with blocks of rockfall debris and many of them were covered in a thick layer of white cave deposit (calcite). This showed that they were likely to be pre – ice age (at least 70 thousand years old) as it takes a long time for the bones to become coated in this way. Finding a moa bone There were once atleast 9 species of moa in New Zealand, although only two of them were common on Takaka Hill. The limestone pot holes were a death trap for many that fell in and were unable to escape. The bone that Sophie is holding in the picture is a lower leg bone (metatarsus). If you would like to see the bones, they are now resident in Ngarua Cave. This is a very worthwhile show cave that has beautiful formations as well as other Moa remains found previously. I can definately recommend a visit if you are passing over the hill some time!

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Dinosaur footprints discovered in New Zealand

Last week, along with several other GNS scientists, I accompanied sedimentologist Greg Browne to the coast near Nelson, to check out his new dinosaur footprint discovery. His findings are being published this month in the New Zealand Journal of Geology and Geophysics. (photo courtesy of Marianna Terezow, GNS Science) Kim Hill from Radio New Zealand joined our group as well. Here she is in conversation about the discovery with well known GNS geologist Hamish Cambell who was part of the team. To hear Kim’s interview with Greg go to: http://www.radionz.co.nz/national/programmes/saturday/20091107 Greg works in the hydrocarbons section at GNS Science, and has been studying the rocks of north west Nelson for many years. These sediments are of interest to a hydrocarbon specialist because they are the onshore equivalent of the oil and gas producing sediments under the sea in the Taranaki Basin. By studying them, geologists can get a clearer picture of the inaccessible sea floor sediments just to the North. Over years of detailed observations and mapping of the Upper Cretaceous (70 million year old) rocks, he came across several places where there were unusual structures visible in the rock layers. Pondering about these for a long time he finally decided to work out for certain what had created them. He scrutinised the rocks more closely and reviewed international scientific literature, finally concluding that the shapes can only be footprints of dinosaurs. One of the reasons that the shapes are hard to interpret is that they appear on different surfaces and have been eroded out by different amounts. This means that it is hard to tell whether the differences in shape are due to erosion, to the way the creatures were walking through the mud, or because they were made by different animals. Some are rounded forms (like an elephant footprint might look) whilst others are more elongated – as if the imprint was caused by the animal dragging through the sediment with less of a stomp! It was a fantastic opportunity to study these unique finds at first hand. John Simes and Marianna Terezow, helped by my 11 year old daughter Sophie, spent their time carefully making silicon casts of some of the best examples. It is important to get the best possible record of the prints as it is inevitable that they will be further eroded away with time. Here are also a couple of links to the TV 1 news interviews about the discovery: http://tvnz.co.nz/national-news/dino-footprints-found-near-nelson-3117525/video http://tvnz.co.nz/national-news/dinosaurs-leave-their-mark-near-nelson-3117525/video and here is a link to the TV 3 news item: http://www.3news.co.nz/Nelsons-dinosaur-footprints-excite-scientists/tabid/309/articleID/128665/cat/772/Default.aspx

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Kawhia Fossil Hunting

Our last day trip took us to two more beautiful localities in the area south of Hamilton. Firstly we visited the Mangapuhoe Natural Bridge. This is a huge limestone archway, formed originally as a large cave which partially collapsed, leaving the Bridge. The track from the road takes you through dense bush beside the river and right under the archway. Beyond it you can walk through to a picturesque area of farmland, with a number of rock outcrops. There is a wall of rock made up of a bed of oysters, similar to those we saw on the Whanganui River. Next we drove to Kiritehere Beach near Kawhia. At the south end of the beach there is a large shore platform with sloping rock beds in which lots of fossils can be found. In fact whole slabs of rock are covered with fossil shells. It is worth bringing a hammer and chisel to split open some of the layers, but even without them it is possible to find lots of fossil molluscs in loose boulders. These fossils are of a bivalve called monotis. We spent the rest of the afternoon happily fossil hunting, then headed for home. Here is a video of James finding some fossils:

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Whanganui River Fossil Beds

 Today we went to two more fossil localities on our journey northwards in the North Island. First up we turned off the main highway about 16 kms north of Wanganui city and travelled along a gravel road beside the Whanganui river for a few kilometres. We parked up beneath some cliffs alongside the road, known to geologists as a great place to see the “Wilkies Shellbed”. It consists of a thick sequence of densely packed fossil oysters, that were living about 2.5 million years ago. There are also other fossils to be found, but the oysters predominate and must have been part of an enormous oyster bed. They would have grown on top of earlier, dead shells, gradually building up the thick sequence into a large oyster reef. The same layer can be found over an area about 50kms across! The photo shows Marianna next to a rock made up almost entirely of the giant oysters. top number two was further north again. We followed state highway 4 all the way up past the volcanoes to Taumaranui, where we turned off to meet the Whanganui river again at Paparoa Rapids. Right beside the river, about 50m downstream from a waterfall on the opposite side, we found some beautiful large fossil shells. The whitish colour stood out from the surrounding grey rock, making them relatively easy to find. These rocks are a bit older than the Wilkies Shellbed, about 11 to 13 million years old. They were laid down in fairly shallow water perhaps 20 – 50 metres deep, that covered a large part of the central North Island at the time, well before the volcanoes existed. In the photo here, you can see some shells as well as a dark tube shaped fossil which may be a piece of wood or the lining of an animal burrow. We weren’t quite sure from a first inspection. Tomorrow we head further north again to hunt more fossils.

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Ototoka Beach Fossil Hunting

Today I am on a fossil hunting tour to check out some of the best fossil hunting sites in the North Island, along with James Crampton and Marianna Terezow. They have been writing a book for New Zealand fossil hunters and we are giving the locations a final check to make sure the details are correct in the book chapters. Our first location is Ototoka Beach, about 20kms west of Wanganui. This location is great for fossil collecting. The cliffs are jam packed with shells of different types. They are relatively young, about 2.4 to 1.5 million years old, and most of the species can still be found alive today. What is particularly interesting about this locality is that you can see changes in the sediments as you look up the cliffs. The fossils and rock types indicate changes in water depth occurring in cycles. These are sea level changes that have been shown to be due to climate cycles (ice ages) and reflect the accumulation of ice on land (low sea levels) alternating with with deeper seas when the ice melted during the interglacials. over 45 of these cycles have been recognised from the rocks in this part of New Zealand. As we looked over the rock beds we could see some thin layers of lignite (poor quality coal) about 5cm thick. (see as a thin dark horizontal band about 3/4 of the way up this photo) These would have formed in a coastal swamp environment. Further up the cliff there were beds of shells showing that the sea level had gone up, and above them were mudstones indicating a water depth of perhaps 50 – 100 metres. Scientists are able to make these estimates because similar shells are still living and are therefore able to be used for direct comparison. This has made the Wanganui area a world class geological site for studying global sea level change.

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Our Changing World radio broadcast

For those of you interested in the follow up of our ice core drilling expedition, here is the National Radio broadcast of the story as told on “Our Changing World” on Thursday 20th August. The broadcast is about 13 minutes long. http://podcast.radionz.co.nz/ocw/ocw-20090820-2120-Southern_Alps_Ice_Cores_Drilling-048.mp3

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White Island 2

See the video of our visit to White Island: Here’s a bit more about what we did during our day on there: Karen and Agnes set off with their water monitoring equipment, whilst Brad, Steve and I started the elevation survey, measuring height differences between an extended series of fixed points that had been marked by wooden stakes driven into the ground. Whilst Steve held the survey pole, Brad aimed his leveler at it from an adjacent measurement station and was able to read off the height difference between the two points. By sighting between the points in this way, we continued our survey past some very loud and active fumaroles, in a broad area towards the crater lake. Occasionally we stopped to take photographs of interesting features, or discuss the history of the formations around us. Once or twice we were enveloped in steam and gas from the fumaroles, and rained on by acidic water droplets (acid rain) that gave a burning, prickling sensation to my eyes. Past measurements have shown that the ground near the crater has been rising by two or three centimeters every three months for several years, mainly due to an increase in heat in the ground. From our measurements we found that the hottest area of ground near the most active fumaroles had risen up to a maximum of 50mm since the last survey, with the amount of uplift reducing quickly a short distance away. These results show continuity with the long term trend of uplift. Almost towards the end of the survey, we met up with Karen and Agnes, and I watched them sampling the water from a very active hydrothermal spring that was gushing and splashing nearby. To make a variety of measurements of the water chemistry and isotopes, they scooped water out of the spring and put it into various sampling bottles. Once our survey was done, Brad and I walked over to the lower of two webcams to give the glass a wipe, as the photos had been getting quite fuzzy due to a build up of dust. There in front of the camera was ‘Dino’ in real life. He is a small dinosaur, apparently famous the world over for having arrived mysteriously to take up residence in full view of White Island’s Crater Webcam some years ago: see http://www.geonet.org.nz/volcano/activity/white-island/cameras/whiteisland-latest.html Before we returned to the helicopter, we walked through the ruins of the old sulphur mine, where there were rusted machines and derelict buildings. Finally we were ready to leave and as we turned in a wide loop above White Island, I was very impressed to have been able to have had such a close encounter with such a remarkable place.

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White Island

Last week I visited the GNS Science office at Wairakei, just outside Taupo. This is where a lot of research is done into New Zealand volcanoes and geothermal fields. First up this morning was a trip to White Island, One of the most frequently active volcanoes in New Zealand, where I assisted a small team of volcanologists on one of their routine visits. The purpose was to test the chemistry of the groundwater appearing out of numerous springs around the crater area, as well as to survey the ground surface elevation to check for sinking or uplift. In the team were GNS scientists Karen Britten, Agnes Mazot, Brad Scott and Steve Sherburn. White Island is 50km north of the Bay of Plenty coast, visible from nearby towns and often seen to be emitting a plume of steam. From the mid seventies to the year 2000 it was frequently in a state of eruption. Since then it has quietened down to become relatively peaceful for the last few years.For our visit we flew by helicopter from Rotorua, first across beautiful farmland and large pine forests, then out to sea where White Island soon loomed up in the distance. I had seen many photos of the island before but was excited to have the opportunity to actually set foot on it in reality. It is a horseshoe shaped island, with a high surrounding ridge around the inner crater area that includes a large yellow greenish crater lake. This lake formed after the most recent eruption phase and is only about 6 years old. On the South East side the ridge is breached in a couple of places, where the land slopes gently to the sea shore at a low angle. On our arrival we flew in from this side, and landed in the hummocky area a couple of hundred metres in from the shore.Our pilot switched off the engine, and immediately the sound of hissing and gushing fumeroles dominated. There was a strong smell of sulphur and clouds of steam wafting up from numerous points further in towards the centre of the main crater. The ground was littered with blocks of scoria and lava bombs from past eruptions. The photo shows a lava bomb that was molten when in landed on top of another rock, before it solidified.

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